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Showing posts with label Hockey Stick Curves. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hockey Stick Curves. Show all posts

Thursday, October 6, 2011

New Easton Hockey Stick Patterns

Just as players occasionaly go from league to league (i.e. Jaromir Jagr just returned to the NHL after a 3 year stint in the KHL), sometimes they also go from one hockey manufacturer to another (i.e. Ovechkin leaving CCM to join Bauer). It can be confusing to keep up with at times, and we won't even bother discussing the contractual reasons involved. Instead, let's just assume that NHL players are just like you and me when it comes to gear; sometimes you feel like trying out a different brand of skates, sticks or gloves. Anyhow, the point is, when a player-manufacturer relationship changes, it really doesn't affect the average hockey player/consumer, until they go looking for their favorite blade pattern and they can't seem to find it anymore... In fact, maybe ALL of the names they once recognized have been replaced with a whole new batch of European and Russian names they've never heard before.

I can remember standing in the stick aisle at Johnny Mac's Sporting Goods in St. Louis, trying to decide between an Easton P3 Sakic curve, Nike Fedorov curve, and Bauer P88 Lindros curve. That was a while ago, but you get the point... Times change, and the names get updated. The P3 Sakic is now the P3 Hall, the P88 Lindros became the P88 Kane, and Nike doesn't even make hockey equipment anymore. The good news is that Nike doesn't make hockey equipment anymore. Oh, and the other good news is that we're here to make sure you're up to speed on the newest blade patterns and names.

Easton recently changed a few of their blade pattern names, threw in some new ones, and even brought back an oldie. Here's the new Easton lineup:

  • P2 – Cammalleri (Previously "Shanahan" - Briefly reintroduced in 2010 [S19 & ST]; discontinued for 2011)
  • P3 – Hall (Previously "Sakic")
  • P4 – Cammalleri (Confusing right..? Previously "Zetterberg", and "Forsberg" before that)
  • P5 – Getzlaf (Previously "Lidstrom")
  • P6 – Parise (Previously "Drury")
  • P7 – Iginla
  • P8 – Roy (Introduced last year)
  • P9 – Heatley
  • P10 – Chara (Discontinued)
  • P33 – Chara (Introduced in 2011)

Since the P2 Cammalleri is no longer being produced, and Zetterberg left Easton for Warrior, Easton decided to just turn the P4 Zetterberg into the P4 Cammalleri. Also, the P10 Chara was discontinued, most likely because Easton already produces two other 1/2" mid curves (Iginla and Heatley). After pulling the P10, Easton introduced the P33 Chara, which is the deepest curve they offer, at 3/4".

Hopefully that sheds a little light on the subject and helps you avoid playing the guessing game when you pick out your pattern for the new line of 2011/2012 Easton Sticks.


Check out the new Easton Stealth RS Stick and Easton Synergy EQ50 Stick at HockeyGiant.com

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

How To Choose A Hockey Stick Blade Pattern

Bauer P88 Kane Curve; Bauer P88 Blade; Bauer Lindros Curve; Bauer P88 Lindros Curve; Bauer Kane Stick Curve; P88 Bauer Curve; Bauer P88 Hockey Stick Blade Pattern; Mid Curve

Here are some of the questions about hockey stick curves or "blade patterns" that we hear pretty frequently:


- What type of curve should I use?
- Which curve works best for slap shots?
- Which curve works best for wrist shots?
- How do I choose a blade pattern?
- What is the "lie" of a hockey stick blade?

In this article, we'll try to answer these and other questions about how to choose a hockey stick curve that will work best for you.

Picking a blade pattern for your hockey stick is one of the most personal choices you’ll make as a hockey player. It’s important to be familiar with your options and be willing to try several patterns before settling on your pick.

Blade patterns/curves are identified by the manufacturers with NHL player names (i.e. Cammalleri - Easton) as well as pattern codes (i.e. P88 - Bauer) which combine several variable attributes to create a unique curve. We'll discuss these attributes in greater detail later on.


Starting Point for Picking a Blade Pattern

There are a few things for you, as a hockey player, to identify before choosing a blade pattern for your hockey stick:


  1. Your position – based on which position you play, you’ll spend more time occupying specific parts of the ice, and you’ll therefore be required to make certain stick handling maneuvers more often than others.

  2. Your shooting tendencies – as a shooter, you are likely to be more skilled at taking certain types of shots over others and you may therefore choose to take more of the shots that you’re comfortable with. But, the position you play also has an effect on the types of shots that you will be more inclined to take.

  3. Your puck handling skills – each player has a different skill set when it comes to puck handling. Some players will dangle more often than other players who choose to keep it simple when they’re handling the puck. It’s always best to keep things as simple as possible, but based on the types of moves you tend to make, you’ll want to target the blade pattern features that will enhance your game.


Hockey Blade Attributes

There are about 5 key attributes to factor in when choosing a blade pattern:


  1. Curve type – There are basically 3 curve types (heel, mid & toe) that you can find in conjunction with the other blade pattern attributes listed below. It’s pretty straight forward, so when you see a heel curve this means that the curve of the blade is concentrated and begins at the heel as opposed to starting towards the middle or toe of the blade. In other words, this defines the "breaking point" of the curve.

  2. Curve depth – The depth refers to the degree of the curve, whether it’s slight, moderate or deep. Curve depth is measured in inches, usually ranging from about 3/8" to 3/4".

  3. Face angle – Face angle is best understood by looking at the concept behind a set of golf clubs. A closed-face angle hockey blade would be like a 1 Iron, whereas an open-face angle blade is equivalent to something like a pitching wedge. The range is anywhere from closed face (cups over the top of the puck) to open wedge (angled back away from the puck). Most blades on the market are slightly open.

  4. Length – The blade length is exactly what the description annotates (short, medium or long). Most blades are medium length.

  5. Lie – The lie is a representative measurement of how the blade is angled in relation to the shaft, which determines how the blade will rest on the ice. Higher lies are usually best for bigger players who skate more upright. Lower lies work better for smaller players and those who tend to skate bent over, closer to the ice. You have found the correct lie when the middle portion of the underside of your blade is resting flat on the ice, rather than resting on the heel with the toe off the ice or vice versa. Below is a diagram that visually displays the concept of blade lie.



Performance Characteristics of Different Blade Pattern Attributes

Here’s a list of some blade pattern attribute values along with the results that you can expect from each option:

Curve Type


  • Heel Curve – possible increase in wrist shot power; puck naturally rests on the heel of the blade on the forehand

  • Mid Curve – balanced results for wrist, snap and slap shots; puck naturally rests on the middle of the blade on the forehand

  • Toe Curve – quick snap shot release; puck naturally rests on the toe of the blade on the forehand


Curve Depth


  • Deep curves – great for wrist shots and puck control on the forehand; less control on the backhand

  • Slight curves – good overall wrist, slap and snap shot control and increased puck control on the backhand; shots don’t naturally rise quite as easily

  • Moderate curves – good balance of forehand and backhand puck control and shot control


Face Angle


  • Open face – easier to lift the puck on the forehand; good puck protection on backhand

  • Closed face – good for keeping your shot low to the ice; great forehand puck protection


Pick a Blade Pattern and Try It Out

Now that you’re more familiar with some of the pros and cons of the options available, pick out a couple of blades that you think would suit your style of play. Experiment with as many options as possible because you may be surprised at what you’re able to do with a curve that you’re a bit apprehensive to try.

The main points to take into consideration when picking a blade pattern are:


  • Deep, open face curves will help you lift the puck on the forehand

  • Slight, closed face curves will help you keep your shots low

  • Deep curves give you great puck control on the forehand but very little on the backhand

  • Slight curves give you balanced puck control on the forehand and backhand

  • Mid, moderate curves provide a great, balanced blend of forehand and backhand puck control

  • The type of curve you pick (heel, mid or toe) determines where the puck will naturally rest on your blade


A Few Blade Patterns You May Want to Try

This may seem like a lot to consider for such a seemingly small piece of equipment, but the hockey blade you choose is just as important as the club a golfer chooses to use each time he reaches into his bag. Don't feel "boxed in" by the info we've provided; try as many options as you possibly can because they are all valuable in different ways.

Here's a list of some popular patterns that you may want to try from some of the most well known manufacturers:


For more information and images of blade patterns from all of the major manufacturers, go to HockeyGiant.com and visit the Hockey Stick Blade Pattern Charts page. Or, click on one of the following links to see the current blade patterns from a specific brand:


Buy Hockey Sticks, Shafts & Blades at HockeyGiant.com