Keeping Busy During the Off-Season

When I was younger, and still playing competitive travel hockey, by this time of the year I was pretty much burned out on playing. I'm sure many of you feel the same way; summer was my time to just kick back and put hockey on the backburner for a few months while my mind and body recovered from a long regular season and grueling playoff run. I've found that this is especially true for highschool-aged players, who often play on a travel team in addition to playing for their highschool hockey club. When I was a sophomore at Webster Groves High School in St. Louis, MO, I was swinging from JV to Varsity while I played on a travel team with the Affton Americans. This was pretty common for players in our area, and you might be doing just the same. Eventually, you start to feel like you might as well set up a cot in the zamboni room and live at the rink.

Every "hockey region" around the U.S. is set up just a little bit differently. As I said, I grew up in the midwest where highschool hockey is very competitive, a close second to AA and AAA hockey leagues. Go up to Minnesota and you'll find that highschool hockey is actually more competitive than most AAA leagues around the nation. On the west coast, highschool ice hockey isn't nearly as competitive because there just simply aren't as many schools in each area with a decent pool of players to choose from; so, travel hockey is usually where the players turn for the best competition. The east coast is more like the midwest but has its own set of nuances.

In any case, the hockey season can be a bit of a grind for players of any age, and it should be. Our sport demands much from the players, and is better described as a lifestyle, rather than merely a game played for recreation. Your heart has to be in it if you're going to make the most of it, but that doesn't mean you have to spend every waking moment on the pond. Sometimes, the best thing you can do as a hockey player is involve yourself in activities that have very little do with hockey at all. Some guys can skate all day every day and never grow tired of it. But, there's much to be gained by seeking out other outlets; especially if you're like me – prone to burning out after a long season.

My first recommendation is to find another sport that you enjoy. In my opinion, the best crossover sport for hockey players is lacrosse. There are many similarities between the two, and I found that my shot and my hands both improved after playing just one season of lacrosse – not to mention the endurance boost you'll get from all of the running you do in lacrosse. It's also a physical sport, and fast-paced, so you'll have to keep your head up just like you do on the rink, which should keep you from developing any bad habits.

Golf is a natural choice for hockey players, and you may be surprised at how quickly your swing develops because of your experience on the rink. Obviously, the nice thing about golf is that you can spend all day outside on a beautiful course with a few buddies, just hacking away, chirping at each other, enjoying the scenery, taking time to relax and unwind. Golf is fairly difficult, so it can be frustrating at times; but, you'll probably enjoy it nonetheless.

Depending on where you live, a float trip down the river could be a great option. If that's not feasible, grab some camping gear and take a hike with some team mates or friends. If you aren't a big fan of the outdoors, go to an indoor rock climbing facility. Go play lazer tag... It may seem like a childish thing to do, but I guarantee that as soon as you get in there and start playing you'll have a blast. How about paintballing?

The key is simply to keep yourself involved in physical activities as often as you can. That being said, rest is incredibly important. If you have bumps, bruises, or tears from the season that need to heal, then by all means, rest! But don't get lazy during the off-season. If you mix it up and break the monotony of your daily routine, by the time the season starts back up you'll be hungry to play again. If you're a real hockey player, the ice will always feel like home. Just make sure you take a vacation every once in a while.

Cycling the Puck in Hockey

You have probably heard the term "cycling" before. Cycling is an important concept to understand, especially if you are a forward. Cycling is a strategy used in the offensive zone to maintain your team's control of the puck. In order to cycle effectively, your players must keep their feet moving and their heads on a swivel. In a nutshell, cycling is performed by controlling and moving the puck, usually along the boards deep in the zone, as you and your linemates rotate in and out of the corner, slot, and top of the circle while the defenders give chase. The goal is to protect the puck and keep it moving so that the defenders are forced to chase you and your linemates. Eventually, the defenders will tire out or one of your players will open up for a pass in a shooting lane.

There are a few things to keep in mind that will help you cycle the puck effectively:

• Keep Your Head Up – You should always have your head up in every situation, but it's crucial when you're cycling. Keeping track of your linemates and the opposing team's defenders is the best way to anticipate plays before they develop. Keeping your head up will also allow you to protect yourself when your opponents try to line you up for a check.


• Move Your Feet – It won't do you any good to stand in one place and pass the puck back and forth with your linemates. A sitting target is easy for any player to defend against, but a moving target is always an offensive threat. Have you ever noticed that it's much more tiring when you're stuck on a long defensive shift than it is when you're out on a long offensive shift? Use it to your advantage by making the other team skate hard to keep up and you'll find yourself with some great scoring chances.


• Communicate – One of the best ways to keep your awareness up is to communicate with your linemates. Let them know when a defender is on their tail or when they should brace for a hit. Call for drop passes, let them know if the puck is in their skates, and give them a heads up when you're heading to the slot for a quick shot. Sometimes it's best not to call out every move you're going to make so that you can keep the defenders guessing, but use your best judgment and communicate whenever it's beneficial.


• Use Good Body Positioning – Good body positioning is the key to puck-protection. You should use your legs and arms to ward off defenders and keep your body between them and the puck. Protecting the puck does not require you to do a bunch of fancy stick-work in order to maintain control. It comes down to keeping yourself and the puck in a position where you have the upper hand as you maneuver.

Remember that you shouldn't cycle just to cycle – do it with purpose. The point of cycling is to create scoring opportunities by maintaining possession of the puck with good puck-protection, quick feet, and great communication. As soon as the defenders make a mistake, and you or one of your linemates gets into scoring position, make the most of the opportunity and get the puck to the net.

Hockey Shaft & Blade Combos

These days, most hockey players are opting to use OPS sticks rather than two-piece blade and shaft combos. Some say it's because of the weight difference; others say it's because they feel like the low-kick flex point is more consistent. I grew up using wood sticks and eventually made the change to two piece shaft and blade combos. That was back in the days of the original Easton Ultra Lite shaft – a breakthrough in its own right for that time.

For years, I've been using shafts and blades and I've always been pleased. For some reason I decided to switch back to wood sticks for a while, which was fine, but I had trouble finding one that held up as well as the old Bauer Supreme 3030 sticks I used to play with. At that point I decided to try out a few OPS's. I wasn't disappointed with the performance of the sticks, but when I started breaking blades, I thought, "If this was a shaft/blade combo, I wouldn't be out $200 right now."

I don't have anything against one piece sticks, but I'd like to offer a few reasons to consider using a shaft/blade combo instead. Everyone has their own set of preferences when it comes to sticks, so what works for you may not be the best fit for the next guy.

Upsides to Using a Shaft/Blade Combo

1. The most obvious upside to using a shaft/blade combo is that when you break a blade, that's all you have to replace. It's much cheaper to replace a $30-$40 blade than to replace a $200 stick.


2. Cross-brand options – When you buy a Bauer OPS, you get Bauer blade patterns. When you buy an Easton OPS, you get Easton blade patterns. When you buy a shaft and blade separately, you have the option of mixing and matching the blade and shaft that work best for you. Maybe you like the TotalOne Shaft from Bauer, but you want to use a Synergy ST Blade from Easton... Not a problem.


3. Durability – This may have just been my own experience, but I've noticed a serious difference in durability between Shaft/Blade combos and OPS's. Not all OPS sticks, but many of the ones I've used have broken in a relatively short amount of time – much less time than the Shafts and Blades I've used. I don't have any science to back this up, but it might be the difference in torque distribution that causes a one piece stick to snap more easily than a shaft. Perhaps the material overlap of a shaft/blade combo acts as a form of reinforcement?

In any case, shafts and blades may not be the current trend, but there's certainly an argument to be made for them. There are plenty of reasons to give it a shot. Just keep in mind that shafts and blades come in "tapered" (.520") and "non-tapered" (standard .620"). You must only match tapered blades with tapered shafts and non-tapered blades with non-tapered shafts.

Get your Hockey Shafts & Blades at HockeyGiant.com

Forechecking and Backchecking: Techniques and Strategies

Forechecking and backchecking serve the same purpose, which is to create turnovers and gain possession of the puck. They should be viewed as parts of the same strategic system, rather than as completely separate parts of the game. Transitions from forechecking to backchecking and from backchecking to forechecking are fairly seamless, and the labels are more or less a reference to the directional flow of the play, as well as the part of the ice and manner in which pressure is being applied. As you forecheck, the other team will attempt to move the puck out of their zone and up the ice. As they advance up-ice toward your zone, the transition from forechecking to backchecking occurs with backside pressure being applied to your opponents as you chase them back toward your end.

Forechecking

Forechecking is defined as defensive pressure applied in the offensive zone with the intent of creating a turnover. Typically, forwards do most of the forechecking by pressuring the opposing team’s defensemen and forwards as they attempt to break out of their own zone. Forechecking is performed with the use of several different techniques and strategies.

Forechecking Techniques

Some of the techniques used when forechecking include body checking, stick checking, sweep checking, poke checking, and just about every other form of checking that you can think of. Depending on the abilities of the individuals who are forechecking, different checking techniques are employed with varying degrees of effectiveness. Bigger players are more likely to body check their opponents in order to create turnovers, while smaller players may find that stick-checking techniques work more effectively for them than body checking.

Forechecking Strategies

Different strategies are also employed, such as a 2-1-2 forecheck, 1-2-2 forecheck, 2-2-1 forecheck, etc. The order of the numbers in each system refer to the number of players applying pressure, the number of players supporting the forechecker(s), and the number of players taking a defensive position at the rear of the formation. As an example, the 1-2-2 forecheck has 1 player applying direct pressure, 2 players supporting the forechecker, and 2 players in the defensive position closer to their end of the ice.

Backchecking

Backchecking is defined as defensive pressure applied in the defensive and neutral zones with the intent of creating a turnover. When you give chase to your opponents as you rush back to defend your own zone, you’re backchecking. Like forechecking, backchecking is performed with the use of several different techniques and strategies.

Backchecking Techniques

Whether you’re forechecking or backchecking, the same techniques are often used in order to create turnovers. Since you’re usually behind your opponents as you chase them toward your end of the ice, it’s important to keep control of your stick and avoid using it in ways that will cause you to be penalized. Stick-checking is usually the most effective technique when you’re on the backcheck, attempting to take the puck away from your opponent. But if you get careless with your stick and hook, trip, slash, or high-stick your opponent, you’ll end up in the box pretty quickly. The best way to avoid penalties is to keep your stick down and keep your feet moving. Try to catch up to your opponent and then get yourself into a strong defensive position, and don’t get lazy or you’ll end up in the box for foolish penalties.

Backchecking Strategies

There are several backchecking systems that are commonly used. The left wing lock and neutral zone trap are probably the two that you’ve heard mentioned most often, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that they are the most commonly employed strategies. There are many ways to backcheck effectively, and the method used by your team will depend on the skill level of the players and the overall strategy of the coaching staff.

The quick definition of the left wing lock is as follows: when the puck is turned over, your left winger jumps back alongside the defensemen near the red line and each one covers a third of the ice while the center and right wing apply pressure to the opposing team’s players from the blue line in.

The quick definition of the neutral zone trap is as follows: when the puck is turned over, both defensemen drop back near your blue line and two of your team’s forwards drop back near the neutral zone faceoff dots to clog the neutral zone, while the last forward applies forechecking pressure in the offensive and neutral zones to force a turnover.

The backchecking sytem used by your team is dependent upon the forechecking system being used. If your team is running a 1-2-2 forecheck, you could say that they’re also running what could be called a 1-2-2 backcheck. As the puck is brought out of your opponent’s zone through the neutral zone into your zone, your players, still in the 1-2-2 formation, must quickly prepare themselves to defend against the oncoming attackers.

It’s important to man up on the backcheck and keep your head on a swivel so that none of the opposing team’s players are left unguarded as they enter your zone. Communication and awareness are the keys to playing great defense. If one of your opponents is open and uncovered, make sure you communicate with your line-mates and figure out who is responsible for covering him.

Hard Work Pays Off

Now that you’re familiar with the basics of backchecking and forechecking strategies and techniques, you should be well equipped to contribute to your team in a very important way. Backchecking and forechecking aren’t the most glorious parts of the game, but they’re essential to the success of every team. When your team works hard at both ends of the ice, you’ll be sure to win more games – and your goalie will most certainly appreciate the help.

Lines, D-Pairs, Shifts, and Line Changes

Lines and D-Pairs

First, let's define a line. In ice hockey, there are forward lines and defensive pairs. A forward line consists of 3 players; centerman, left winger, and right winger. A defensive line/pair consists of one left defenseman and one right defenseman. Most of the time, when a player or coach says "line", he's referring to the forwards. "D-pair" (defensive pair) and "defensive unit" are usually the terms used to refer to a defensive line.

Roster Configurations

A full roster is traditionally composed of 4 forward lines (12 players) and 3 D-pairs (6 players). Depending on the philosophical team strategy of the coaching staff and the players who are available on the roster, you may occasionally come across a team that dresses 7 defensemen and 11 forwards. In fact, the St. Louis Blues have been using the 7-11 design for their last few games, and it’s proven to be quite effective. But, the 12-F 6-D roster is still most commonly employed.

Shifts

Now that we know what a line is we can talk about shifts. When you’re out on the ice you’re taking a shift. Your shift is basically just your turn to go out on the ice and play. A typical shift is 45 seconds to 1 minute long. Sometimes your shifts will be shorter or longer than average, for various reasons. You may get double-shifted from time to time, which means that you’ll stay on the ice for two consecutive shifts before coming to the bench to rest. This often happens when a team is missing a couple players from the roster, or when a key faceoff needs to be won and the team’s best centerman is already on the ice from his previous shift. These and other similar situations will inevitably arise and you’ll become more familiar with the strategies that are used to address them as they come up.

Unfortunately, sometimes you’ll get short-shifted because the player you’re waiting to sub in for, on the line ahead of you, is taking a longer shift than he ought to. Everyone gets short-shifted from time to time because of penalties, stoppages in play, and player matchups.

Part of being a team player is making a conscious effort to take shifts that are the proper length, as defined by your coach. And no, I'm not appealing to the "feel-good" crowd who places a greater emphasis on sharing, caring and "fairness" than they place on winning as a team. Rather, my point is directed at the players who come off when they feel like it, instead of following the system laid out by the team's coaching staff. Your coach may decide to play one of his defensemen for literally half of the game while he puts another defenseman in only once or twice each period. Usually, the coach has good reasons for doing the things he does. So, if you're the guy riding the pine, don't just sit there and complain - study the players who are getting significant ice time and try to figure out how to make yourself as valuable to your coach as they are.

Line Changes

We’ve covered lines and shifts already, so line changes should be fairly self-explanatory. But for the sake of being thorough, we’ll define line changes and discuss some of the nuances that persist. Line changes occur when the players on the ice come to the bench to be replaced by another line of well-rested players. In most cases, forward lines are assembled before the game and are defined as Line 1, 2, 3 and 4. Usually, defensive pairs are also determined before the game. Youth teams and less competitive adult teams usually run 4 lines all game. As you get older and play on more highly competitive teams, there’s a greater likelihood that your shift frequency will change based on the line that you’ve been assigned to.

Your coach will simply call out your line’s number or your centerman’s last name when your shift is up: "Line 2" or "Stastny line", for instance. You’ll hear terms like "change em up", "full change", "change up front", "change the D", and "on the fly". These are terms that you’ll become familiar with fairly quickly.

• Change em Up – A line change should be made


• Full Change – All players on the ice are replaced


• Change Up Front –The forward line is replaced


• Change The D – The defensemen are replaced


• Changing on the Fly – A line change made during the play, rather than during a stoppage of play

Making Good Line Changes

Ice hockey is a team sport, which means that every move you make affects the team. Making good line changes is a crucial aspect of team performance. To give an example, just imagine that your team has possession of the puck in the other team’s defensive zone, and you’ve all been on the ice for a fairly long shift. One of your players turns the puck over to one of the players on the other team and a breakout ensues. At this point, one of your defensemen decides he needs to rest, so he skates to the bench to make a change. This means that you only have 1 defenseman back to defend against the rush, creating a dangerous odd-man situation. This is a bad change. It’s bad enough that you’re tired from the long shift, but now you’re also momentarily shorthanded.

The best time to make a line change is when your team has possession of the puck entering the offensive zone. If you have possession in the neutral zone and you’re near the end of a shift, but you don’t have the energy to make an offensive play, just get to the red line and dump the puck into the other team’s zone and then quickly skate to the bench. Short shifts are always better than long shifts. Staying on the ice for a long shift will wear you down and make you virtually useless anyway, so it’s best to take shorter shifts so that you can avoid getting caught on a long, tiring shift stuck in your defensive zone.

Crossover Sports for Ice Hockey Players

Ice hockey is a very unique sport – especially when it’s compared to the other 3 professional team sports in North America (Baseball; Basketball; Football). Each of these sports have many things in common, but there are many things that set ice hockey apart from the rest.

1. Hockey is played on an ice surface rather than a field or court


2. Hockey players wear skates rather than cleats or shoes


3. Hockey is played with a goaltender to defend the net


4. Hockey is played with sticks and pucks rather than bats and balls


5. Player substitutions are often made on the fly


6. Transitions from offense to defense occur continuously without any stoppage of play


7. Every whistle and stoppage of play requires a faceoff


8. When an infraction occurs, the referee assesses a penalty which puts the team of the offending player shorthanded for the duration of the penalty


9. There are no shot clocks or limitations on possession time

The list goes on, but you get the point. Despite all of these differences, as a hockey player you should recognize that in order to reach your full potential on the ice you should engage yourself in other sports. Playing other sports will help you develop your hand-eye coordination, keep you in shape, strengthen different muscle groups, improve your mental awareness, and you’ll be far less likely to get burned out on hockey. The key is to keep yourself involved in activities that will challenge you and help you grow as an athlete. That could mean swimming, running, golfing, or hunting – just stay active.

One of the best crossover sports for hockey players is lacrosse. Lacrosse is becoming more and more popular every year, and as a hockey player you’ll find that the transition is fairly seamless. Just like hockey, lacrosse is a fast-paced sport that requires quick decisions, great mental awareness, pinpoint passing skills, and the willingness to sacrifice your body in order to make a play. Lacrosse is a very physical sport and most leagues are full contact, so you have to keep your head on a swivel and be able to make plays without missing a stride. Playing lacrosse will help you develop soft hands for hockey, too. Lacrosse sticks are made with a webbed head on the end which is used to cradle the ball. Learning to cradle the ball well will drastically improve your puckhandling skills – so, even if you aren’t playing in a lacrosse league, a lacrosse stick would be a great training tool for any hockey player.

If you keep an open mind about playing other sports in addition to hockey, you’ll be amazed by the growth you experience when you step back onto the ice. The difference between good athletes and great athletes is that great athletes are incredibly versatile and well-rounded.

Inline Hockey Wheels: What is a Durometer Rating?

Inline hockey wheels are available in many variations according to size, color, bearing type and durometer. Durometer is a numerical expression which indicates the hardness of a wheel. The lower the number, the softer the wheel. The higher the number, the harder the wheel. Durometer ratings for inline hockey wheels range from 74A to 84A, although there are some wheels offered above and below this range. Durometer ratings are used to help you find the wheels that will offer the proper amount of surface grip and durability. If you're interested in reading a technical explanation of durometer ratings and how they're determined, read the following article: "Shore (Durometer) Hardness Test"

Once again, a lower durometer rating (i.e. 74A) indicates a softer wheel with more surface grip and a higher durometer rating (i.e. 84A) indicates a harder, more durable wheel with less surface grip. The reason that wheels with a lower durometer rating have a tackier grip texture than high durometer wheels is to compensate for the slick surface upon which soft, low durometer wheels are used. Sport court is a relatively smooth, slick surface made of plastic/rubber tiles, and usually 74A and 76A wheels are the best choice. Outdoor wheels with 82A or 84A durometer do not have as much grip texture because outdoor surfaces like asphalt provide plenty of grit and texture on their own, which is countered by the hardness of outdoor wheels, making them more durable and practical for that specific application.

It’s also very important to consider the weight of the skater using the wheels. Although a heavy player may be able to get away with using a soft wheel on a smooth surface without having a completely adverse effect on the durability, the wheels may feel like flat tires, which drastically affects performance. If too much weight is being absorbed by the wheels then they will compress too much to hold their form. It's all about finding the perfect balance of durability, grip and rigidity. Below is a general breakdown of the intended use for inline hockey wheels in each durometer class.

• 72A (XX-Soft) – This is an unconventionally soft durometer. These inline wheels should only be used on an indoor, sport court surface by a skater who weighs 150 lbs or less.


• 74A (X-Soft) – This is a commonly used durometer by players under 190 lbs on an indoor sport court surface. Players under 130 lbs should be able to use 74A inline wheels on a smooth, wood surface without wearing them out too quickly.


• 76A (Soft) – This is probably the most commonly used durometer. Players weighing 210 lbs or less can use this type of inline wheel on an indoor sport court surface without experiencing much of the “flat tire” effect. Players who are 140 lbs or less can pretty safely use this type of inline wheel on a wood surface as well.


• 78A (Multi-surface) – Inline wheels with a rating of 78A are typically referred to as multi-surface wheels because they are hard enough to handle sealed cement and wood surfaces while still maintaining enough grip to be used on a sport court surface with relatively good results. Players in the 190-250 lb range can effectively use this type of wheel on an indoor sport court surface. Skaters in the range of 150-220 lbs can pretty safely use this type of wheel on a wood surface. Players under 200 lbs ought to be able to use this durometer on a very smooth, painted concrete surface without severely decreasing the life of the wheels.


• 80A (Multi-surface) – An 80A inline wheel can still be considered a multi-surface wheel but of course it will have less grip than a 78A. This type of wheel is not highly recommended for use on a sport court surface. It is best suited for wood surfaces, in any weight class. On a sealed cement surface this durometer will hold up well, but is probably going to be a bit too hard to grip the surface as well as a 78A wheel.


• 82A (Outdoor) – An inline wheel with an 82A durometer is hard enough to be used on unsealed sidewalk cement, and it should hold up fairly well on asphalt for players under 180 lbs. It can be used on a sealed cement surface as well, but there will likely be substandard results due to the lack of grip provided by such a wheel as hard as this.


• 84A (Outdoor/Asphalt) – This is just about the hardest inline hockey wheel you will find. It is absolutely an outdoor wheel intended specifically for sidewalk concrete or asphalt surfaces. Skaters of any size can use this type of wheel on a blacktop or asphalt surface with favorable results. This type of wheel is not recommended for smooth, sealed concrete surfaces. It is best suited for street hockey on asphalt and gritty concrete.

Buy inline hockey wheels at HockeyGiant.com

Quick Tips For Improving Your Puck Handling Skills

Q: How do I improve my puck handling skills?

A: Puck handing skills can be improved by practicing puck handling drills, using training pucks and experimenting with different blade patterns until you find the one that works best for you. It’s also important to strengthen your forearms and hands with workout routines that target the muscles which are used in puck handling.

One of the most popular puck handling drills is the figure 8. You can place two small cones, your gloves or other stationary objects on the ground and stickhandle around the objects. Make a habit of keeping your head up while you handle the puck so that you are able to protect yourself during a game when other players are lining you up for a hit. When you’re practicing any puck handling drill it is important to focus on moving the puck in a fluid motion that requires the smallest amount possible of forehand to backhand puck movement. Having good hands doesn’t mean that you can simply move the puck back and forth at 100 miles per hour – it means that you’re able to maintain complete control of the puck without over-handling it. Quick, soft hands are better than quick, choppy hands.

Use weighted pucks and stick weights while practicing and you’ll notice a drastic difference in the ease with which you are able to deke and dangle while using a regulation puck during a game. Keep in mind that muscle memory is a huge part of performing any athletic maneuver, so after training with a weighted puck you’ll need to give your muscles time to adjust to the weight of a regulation hockey puck before you start playing in a game.

You can relate it to the way that your legs feel when you’ve been running on a treadmill and then you step off of the treadmill and begin to walk on the ground again – you feel like the ground can’t keep up with your legs. Similarly, the puck will feel much lighter as you’re handling it and at first it may feel a bit awkward because your muscles are anticipating more weight resistance from the puck. But, eventually your muscles readjust and you’re able to handle the puck with greater control and precision because less effort is required due to the decrease in weight.

Another way to improve your puckhandling skills is to explore different blade pattern options. Blade patterns are available in many variations and the differences are evident in the way that you are able to handle the puck with each different pattern. Make sure you experiment with many different types before settling on one or another. And keep in mind that each blade pattern offers a different set of puck handling pros and cons. Some blades offer great forehand puck protection; others will improve your toe drag; some will cause the puck to rest on your heel while others cause it to settle on the middle or toe of the blade. All of these options are available to you so that you are able to enhance your game as an individual with a unique skill set and playing style.

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One-Piece vs Two-Piece Hockey Sticks

Many people ask the question, "Are one piece sticks better than two piece sticks?" The short answer is that from a technological standpoint, yes, OPS's are "better" than two piece hockey sticks. These days, everyone is looking to get their hands on the lightest gear available, and hockey sticks are leading the way in the race toward weightless equipment. A lighter stick means less energy and strength required for the player to shoot, pass and handle the puck. This translates to harder shots, quicker hands and greater energy conservation throughout the game.

In addition to the decreased weight of an OPS, the design also provides a more consistent feel throughout the shaft and blade because the vibrations are not interrupted by the material barrier present with the conjoining of a shaft and blade. Traditional one piece wood sticks still provide, arguably, the best overall feel because of the excellent vibration properties of wood. But, composite OPS's are a close second to wood sticks.

Another benefit of the one piece design is the increased shot power and quicker release generated by the low kick point at the blade/shaft hosel part of the stick, which is not as effectively accomplished with the two piece design because of the overlap of blade and shaft materials. Manufacturers are able to increase flexibility near the crook of the shaft while increasing stiffness in the blade and upper portion of the shaft, which enables the shooter to flex the shaft right above the blade. A low kick-point is particularly effective for generating quick, powerful, accurate snapshots.

The benefit of using a two piece shaft and blade combo is that you are able to replace the blade when it breaks and continue using the shaft which remains intact. Also, you are able to mix and match shafts and blades to create combinations that are unique and otherwise unavailable in OPS form as offered by the manufacturers. This is especially beneficial to players who prefer the feel of wood blades but would also like to benefit from the rigidity, consistency and lightweight materials of composite shafts.

Most NHL players now use one piece composite hockey sticks but there are still many who prefer to use two piece hockey sticks. All things considered, it boils down to a matter of personal preference.

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How To Choose A Hockey Stick Blade Pattern

Here are some of the questions about hockey stick curves or "blade patterns" that we hear pretty frequently:

- What type of curve should I use?
- Which curve works best for slap shots?
- Which curve works best for wrist shots?
- How do I choose a blade pattern?
- What is the "lie" of a hockey stick blade?

In this article, we'll try to answer these and other questions about how to choose a hockey stick curve that will work best for you.

Picking a blade pattern for your hockey stick is one of the most personal choices you’ll make as a hockey player. It’s important to be familiar with your options and be willing to try several patterns before settling on your pick.

Blade patterns/curves are identified by the manufacturers with NHL player names (i.e. Cammalleri - Easton) as well as pattern codes (i.e. P88 - Bauer) which combine several variable attributes to create a unique curve. We'll discuss these attributes in greater detail later on.

Starting Point for Picking a Blade Pattern

There are a few things for you, as a hockey player, to identify before choosing a blade pattern for your hockey stick:

1. Your position – based on which position you play, you’ll spend more time occupying specific parts of the ice, and you’ll therefore be required to make certain stick handling maneuvers more often than others.


2. Your shooting tendencies – as a shooter, you are likely to be more skilled at taking certain types of shots over others and you may therefore choose to take more of the shots that you’re comfortable with. But, the position you play also has an effect on the types of shots that you will be more inclined to take.


3. Your puck handling skills – each player has a different skill set when it comes to puck handling. Some players will dangle more often than other players who choose to keep it simple when they’re handling the puck. It’s always best to keep things as simple as possible, but based on the types of moves you tend to make, you’ll want to target the blade pattern features that will enhance your game.

Hockey Blade Attributes

There are about 5 key attributes to factor in when choosing a blade pattern:

1. Curve type – There are basically 3 curve types (heel, mid & toe) that you can find in conjunction with the other blade pattern attributes listed below. It’s pretty straight forward, so when you see a heel curve this means that the curve of the blade is concentrated and begins at the heel as opposed to starting towards the middle or toe of the blade. In other words, this defines the "breaking point" of the curve.


2. Curve depth – The depth refers to the degree of the curve, whether it’s slight, moderate or deep. Curve depth is measured in inches, usually ranging from about 3/8" to 3/4".


3. Face angle – Face angle is best understood by looking at the concept behind a set of golf clubs. A closed-face angle hockey blade would be like a 1 Iron, whereas an open-face angle blade is equivalent to something like a pitching wedge. The range is anywhere from closed face (cups over the top of the puck) to open wedge (angled back away from the puck). Most blades on the market are slightly open.


4. Length – The blade length is exactly what the description annotates (short, medium or long). Most blades are medium length.


5. Lie – The lie is a representative measurement of how the blade is angled in relation to the shaft, which determines how the blade will rest on the ice. Higher lies are usually best for bigger players who skate more upright. Lower lies work better for smaller players and those who tend to skate bent over, closer to the ice. You have found the correct lie when the middle portion of the underside of your blade is resting flat on the ice, rather than resting on the heel with the toe off the ice or vice versa. Below is a diagram that visually displays the concept of blade lie.

Performance Characteristics of Different Blade Pattern Attributes

Here’s a list of some blade pattern attribute values along with the results that you can expect from each option:

Curve Type

• Heel Curve – possible increase in wrist shot power; puck naturally rests on the heel of the blade on the forehand


• Mid Curve – balanced results for wrist, snap and slap shots; puck naturally rests on the middle of the blade on the forehand


• Toe Curve – quick snap shot release; puck naturally rests on the toe of the blade on the forehand

Curve Depth

• Deep curves – great for wrist shots and puck control on the forehand; less control on the backhand


• Slight curves – good overall wrist, slap and snap shot control and increased puck control on the backhand; shots don’t naturally rise quite as easily


• Moderate curves – good balance of forehand and backhand puck control and shot control

Face Angle

• Open face – easier to lift the puck on the forehand; good puck protection on backhand


• Closed face – good for keeping your shot low to the ice; great forehand puck protection

Pick a Blade Pattern and Try It Out

Now that you’re more familiar with some of the pros and cons of the options available, pick out a couple of blades that you think would suit your style of play. Experiment with as many options as possible because you may be surprised at what you’re able to do with a curve that you’re a bit apprehensive to try.

The main points to take into consideration when picking a blade pattern are:

• Deep, open face curves will help you lift the puck on the forehand


• Slight, closed face curves will help you keep your shots low


• Deep curves give you great puck control on the forehand but very little on the backhand


• Slight curves give you balanced puck control on the forehand and backhand


• Mid, moderate curves provide a great, balanced blend of forehand and backhand puck control


• The type of curve you pick (heel, mid or toe) determines where the puck will naturally rest on your blade

A Few Blade Patterns You May Want to Try

This may seem like a lot to consider for such a seemingly small piece of equipment, but the hockey blade you choose is just as important as the club a golfer chooses to use each time he reaches into his bag. Don't feel "boxed in" by the info we've provided; try as many options as you possibly can because they are all valuable in different ways.

Here's a list of some popular patterns that you may want to try from some of the most well known manufacturers:

• Bauer - P92 Ovechkin (replaced P92 Backstrom)... Moderate Toe Curve / Slightly Open Face


• Bauer - P88 Kane (replaced P88 Lindros)... Mid Moderate Curve / Slightly Open Face


• Easton - P4 Cammalleri (replaced P4 Zetterberg/Forsberg)... Slight Mid-Heel Curve / Slightly Open Face


• CCM - 145-0 Tavares (replaced 145-0 Recchi)... Mid Moderate Curve / Closed Face


• Reebok - P38 Datsyuk... Deep Mid-Heel / Slightly Open Face Toe

For more information and images of blade patterns from all of the major manufacturers, go to HockeyGiant.com and visit the Hockey Stick Blade Pattern Charts page. Or, click on one of the following links to see the current blade patterns from a specific brand:

• Bauer Hockey Blade Chart
• CCM Hockey Blade Chart
• Easton Hockey Blade Chart
• Reebok Hockey Blade Chart
• Warrior Hockey Blade Chart

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Hockey Skating Tips from HockeyGiant.com

In the sport of ice hockey, skating is the name of the game. So we're going to offer some insight on a few common technical flaws amongst skaters, and focus specifically on improving your stride.

Q: How do I improve my skating stride?

A: Long, powerful, smooth strides are the mark of a great skater. But many hockey players have a bit of a sloppy, choppy stride. The most common mistake that skaters make is buying into the idea that quicker feet equate to greater overall skating speed. Having quick feet is important for agility, but the fastest skaters on the ice are fast because they use proper technique when pushing off, extending their legs with each stride.

Some players are born with great natural skating ability, but most players must learn how to break the bad habits they’ve picked up and create good habits that will help them become the best skaters they can be. Here are a few common mistakes that can be corrected fairly easily once they’re identified:

1. Wide push-off stance – many players push off from a wide stance which limits the length of their stride and in turn they are unable to generate very much power. It’s like trying to jump up in the air with straight knees rather than bending your knees, loading and thrusting upward with full force. The heels of your skates ought to be just a few inches apart as you push off with each stride – which leads us to another common mistake…


2. Straight knees – players who properly bend their knees as they skate are able to generate much more power, have better balance and are able to perform high speed maneuvers with greater confidence and ease. Straight-legged skaters are simply lazy skaters, and lazy skaters aren’t going anywhere fast. Although it is far less common, there are some players who bend their knees a bit too much. This also causes a shorter stride, a decrease in power and accelerated muscle fatigue.
   

   Watch some of the fastest skaters in the NHL, like Marian Gaborik of the New York Rangers or Andrew Cogliano of the Edmonton Oilers, and take note of the amount of bend in their knees when they’re in full stride. It’s not too much, not too little; just enough to keep them a stride ahead of everyone else on the ice.



3. Forward/backward lean – this issue is cause by poor posture. Proper skating technique requires a skater’s toes, knees and shoulders to create an imaginary line that runs perpendicular to the ice. This is one of the biggest keys to being a strong, balanced, powerful skater. As soon as that imaginary line disappears, so does your balance. Without balance, it's impossible to generate a powerful stride.

Like any other skill, perfecting your skating stride takes time and practice. Every hockey player has room for improvement as a skater and there’s no doubt that skating is the quintessential ingredient for success on the ice. Even professional hockey players still have power skating coaches. So if they still feel the need to improve their skating ability then everyone else could probably use a little fine-tuning as well.

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How to Bake Your Hockey Skates

Many ice hockey skates are now made with a special type of thermo-formable foam that responds to heat and becomes soft enough to be reshaped for a customized fit. Most hockey pro shops have a skate oven that is used to heat up the skates for about 5-10 minutes at approximately 175°, but the temperature and baking time varies from one skate model to the next.

Do I Have to Bake My Skates?

For certain skate models, baking is required, for others it is highly recommended and for most it is not absolutely necessary but may be worth doing anyhow. Hockey skates are made to be stiff and supportive but can be uncomfortable when they haven't been broken in. Baking your skates often gives you a more comfortable fit than the fit you'll experience with a pair of skates that you wear right out of the box, and baking also helps eliminate some of the initial pressure points that exist with a new pair of skates. Break-in time varies from model to model, but typically takes between 6 and 10 hours of hard skating.

Can I Use My Kitchen Oven to Bake My Skates?

Baking your hockey skates in your home oven is not recommended because the skates can be damaged if they are improperly baked. It's always best to have the skates baked in a skate oven at a hockey pro shop. Also, the manufacturer's warranty is often void if the skates are baked in your home oven.

If you don't have access to a hockey pro shop with a skate oven then a hair blow dryer works fairly well and provides a safe alternative. Just point it into the boot on low heat for 10-12 minutes and the materials should become warm enough to do the trick. Be very careful when you're lacing up your skates because when the materials are warm the eyelets can become strained and may even pop out if you pull too hard. Pull the laces outward as you tighten rather than upward. After you've tightened the skates, stay seated for about 40 minutes so the materials have a chance to cool down. It's also best to wait about 24 hours after baking before you skate to allow the materials to harden and set.

Does Every Skate Model Respond Differently to Baking?

High end models, such as the Bauer Vapor APX Skates and CCM U+ Crazy Light Skates should always be baked for the best fit because the quarter package of elite models such as these is very rigid and somewhat unforgiving in the absence of baking. Mid level skates should be baked as well, but it's not absolutely necessary as the boots are typically a bit softer. Introductory level skates have a softer shell and usually do not have the same type of thermo-formable foam padding which is used in mid and high level skates, so they do not need to be baked because they are easier to break in the old fashioned way.

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Hockey Shooting Tips from HockeyGiant.com

Shooting is one of the most important skills that a hockey player possesses; or doesn't possess. If you feel like you've got some room for improvement in the shooting department then take a look through some of these tips and suggestions about how to increase your shooting ability.

Q: How do I take a wrist shot?

A: When you’re taking a wrist shot the puck should rest on the heel of your blade and roll from heel to toe as you're releasing your shot. Your weight should be resting on your back foot as you're loading and transferred to your front foot as your shot is released. Following through on your shot by pointing to your target as you release your shot will greatly improve your accuracy.

Q: How do I take a snap shot?

A: Snap shots are known as the option between slap shots and wrist shots because the puck is slapped but with only a small amount of wind up. There are basically two ways to take a snap shot: 1) Lift your blade off of the ice about 6-12” away from the puck, strike the puck and follow through to take a “mini slap shot” of sorts. 2) With the puck resting on the toe of your blade, rotate the stick with your wrists so that the heel is lifted off the ice as your toe cradles the puck and then quickly snap your wrists to rotate your heel back to the ice and release the shot from the mid-toe of your blade.

The second method takes a bit more time to master because you have to develop strength and quickness in the forearm muscles that are used when performing the shot. But it is the best shot option when you need to release the puck quickly and powerfully, so it is a very important skill to develop.

Q: How do I take a slap shot?

A: For most players, the slap shot is the hardest shot in their repertoire but also their most inaccurate. There are a few common mistakes that many players make when taking a slap shot.

Common mistakes:

1. A huge wind up – lifting your stick so that the shaft is almost perpendicular to the ice (≈ 150°) is as high as you need to go when winding up for a slap shot. Any higher than that is simply a waste of energy, and a costly waste of time, which is often limited when you’re trying to get a shot off before the defenders are able to steal the puck or block the shooting lane.


2. Blade/ice/puck contact point – when your blade approaches the ice to slap the puck, it should first strike the ice approximately 1-3 inches behind the puck before making contact with the puck. This is a skill that takes practice, but it’s an important key to generating maximum shot power. When the blade makes contact with the ice the shaft flexes and loads. As the blade approaches the puck, the shaft whips forward and propels the puck with greater force. Players call this “making the stick do the work for you”.


3. Hand placement on the shaft – players commonly place their bottom hand too low or too high on the shaft while taking a slap shot. An important technological aspect to understand about hockey sticks is that they have varying “kick points”. Hockey sticks have a low or mid kick point, which denotes the point on the shaft that flexes when pressure is applied. If your bottom hand is too high the shaft will not flex properly and you’ll generate very little shot power. If your bottom hand is too low then you’re likely to experience a power deficit as well as a lack of shot accuracy.

The best way to improve your shot is to simply practice. Don't just shoot aimlessly though – make sure that you're shooting to score every time. Pick corners, aim for the inner edges of the posts, practice shooting from tough angles on the sides of the net and release the puck as quickly as possible. Have someone pass to you so that you're forced to settle the puck quickly before releasing your shot. Accuracy and shot power are very important, but a quick release will catch the goalie by surprise, so make sure you spend time practicing shot quickness.

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