Easton Makes Their Mark in the Stanley Cup Playoffs

The monstrocity that is Zdeno Chara triumphantly lifted the Cup, becoming the first player to hoist hockey's holy grail and cause onlookers to wonder if, perhaps, he routinely drinks from a cup of that size. Nevertheless, Chara let out a gut-rumbling cry as he raised Lord Stanley to the heavens like it was the Crown of a vested King, fallen at the hands of a giant Medieval Warrior.

These 2011 Stanley Cup Playoffs were intensely physical from the first drop of the puck, and it's safe to say that there were plenty of surprises – even though we're all well aware of hockey's inherently unpredictable nature. That's what often keeps us from jumping ship when our team hits a rough patch, or when a player falls into a slump; there's always hope that things will turn around. I looked around for a single person who predicted that the Bruins would win the Cup when the playoffs started, and I couldn't find anyone. That's our game – You've gotta love it.

Hockey is constantly evolving, with better training techniques, changes to the rules (some good, some bad), and perpetual improvements made to players' gear. Sticks, arguably, have been changing more rapidly than any other single piece of equipment. Every year, we see dozens of new models hit the market with tweaks and modifications made to give the player a competitive edge. When someone is doing it right, you can't help but notice.

I recently wrote a review of the Easton Synergy EQ50 Hockey Stick, and if you give it a read you'll pretty quickly figure out how impressed I was with it. I must not have been the only one pleased with the direction that Easton is heading with their new sticks, as well as their protective gear and skates. If you glanced out on the rink at any point during the playoffs, you probably wouldn't have been able to catch a single shift where there wasn't at least one player on the ice with an Easton product.

Easton gave us some compelling stats from the 2011 NHL Playoffs:

Easton #1 in the 2011 NHL Playoffs for players who scored 1 or more points

Easton #1 in the 2011 NHL Playoffs for goals

Easton #1 in the 2011 NHL Playoffs for assists

Easton #1 in the 2011 NHL Playoffs for points

Easton's Zdeno Chara led all players with a +14 plus/minus rating

Easton's Mike Cammalleri led all first round scorers with 3G, 7A, 10Pts – stick of choice: Easton Stealth RS

Easton's David Krejci led all 2011 NHL Playoff scorers in Goals (12), Points (23), and Game Winning Goals (4) – stick of choice: Easton Stealth RS

Keeping Busy During the Off-Season

When I was younger, and still playing competitive travel hockey, by this time of the year I was pretty much burned out on playing. I'm sure many of you feel the same way; summer was my time to just kick back and put hockey on the backburner for a few months while my mind and body recovered from a long regular season and grueling playoff run. I've found that this is especially true for highschool-aged players, who often play on a travel team in addition to playing for their highschool hockey club. When I was a sophomore at Webster Groves High School in St. Louis, MO, I was swinging from JV to Varsity while I played on a travel team with the Affton Americans. This was pretty common for players in our area, and you might be doing just the same. Eventually, you start to feel like you might as well set up a cot in the zamboni room and live at the rink.

Every "hockey region" around the U.S. is set up just a little bit differently. As I said, I grew up in the midwest where highschool hockey is very competitive, a close second to AA and AAA hockey leagues. Go up to Minnesota and you'll find that highschool hockey is actually more competitive than most AAA leagues around the nation. On the west coast, highschool ice hockey isn't nearly as competitive because there just simply aren't as many schools in each area with a decent pool of players to choose from; so, travel hockey is usually where the players turn for the best competition. The east coast is more like the midwest but has its own set of nuances.

In any case, the hockey season can be a bit of a grind for players of any age, and it should be. Our sport demands much from the players, and is better described as a lifestyle, rather than merely a game played for recreation. Your heart has to be in it if you're going to make the most of it, but that doesn't mean you have to spend every waking moment on the pond. Sometimes, the best thing you can do as a hockey player is involve yourself in activities that have very little do with hockey at all. Some guys can skate all day every day and never grow tired of it. But, there's much to be gained by seeking out other outlets; especially if you're like me – prone to burning out after a long season.

My first recommendation is to find another sport that you enjoy. In my opinion, the best crossover sport for hockey players is lacrosse. There are many similarities between the two, and I found that my shot and my hands both improved after playing just one season of lacrosse – not to mention the endurance boost you'll get from all of the running you do in lacrosse. It's also a physical sport, and fast-paced, so you'll have to keep your head up just like you do on the rink, which should keep you from developing any bad habits.

Golf is a natural choice for hockey players, and you may be surprised at how quickly your swing develops because of your experience on the rink. Obviously, the nice thing about golf is that you can spend all day outside on a beautiful course with a few buddies, just hacking away, chirping at each other, enjoying the scenery, taking time to relax and unwind. Golf is fairly difficult, so it can be frustrating at times; but, you'll probably enjoy it nonetheless.

Depending on where you live, a float trip down the river could be a great option. If that's not feasible, grab some camping gear and take a hike with some team mates or friends. If you aren't a big fan of the outdoors, go to an indoor rock climbing facility. Go play lazer tag... It may seem like a childish thing to do, but I guarantee that as soon as you get in there and start playing you'll have a blast. How about paintballing?

The key is simply to keep yourself involved in physical activities as often as you can. That being said, rest is incredibly important. If you have bumps, bruises, or tears from the season that need to heal, then by all means, rest! But don't get lazy during the off-season. If you mix it up and break the monotony of your daily routine, by the time the season starts back up you'll be hungry to play again. If you're a real hockey player, the ice will always feel like home. Just make sure you take a vacation every once in a while.

Hockey Skates: Pitch, Hollow and Radius

Whenever you take your skates to your local pro shop to have them sharpened, I'm sure the man behind the sharpening stone throws around a few terms that you may or may not be familiar with. If you're a seasoned vet, you probably don't need to read much further. If you're a beginner, or you've simply made a habit of handing over your skates and crossing your fingers as you hope for the best, this article should help you become a bit more familiar with some of the hockey pro shop jargon.

We're going to discuss the terms pitch, hollow, and radius, as they pertain to runners (blades) on your ice hockey skates. Knowledge is power, and if you have a clear understanding of what these terms mean, you'll be able to communicate more clearly with your local skate sharpener. You have options – so take full advantage, and don't hesitate to make some adjustments here and there until you find what you're looking for.

Hollow

Hollow is the depth of the edges given to your runners when they are sharpened. The most common hollows used are (from deepest to shallowest) 3/8”, 7/16”, 1/2”, 9/16” & 5/8”. You may be wondering what these numbers represent. You may also be wondering why the sharper/deeper hollows are represented by smaller numbers. Well, the numbers actually represent the radius of the imaginary circle that would be created if you traced the contour of the hollow in the runner to produce a complete circle.

The grey area, in the diagram below, represents the runner. The groove in the 9/16" hollow is much shallower than the groove in the 3/8" hollow. This also means that the edges of the 9/16" hollow are not as thin or long as the edges of the 3/8" hollow. Keep in mind that these images were not done to-scale, but should help you visualize the difference between a shallow cut (9/16") and a deep cut (3/8").

A few things must be considered when choosing the hollow that best suits you.

1. Your weight – Heavy skaters do not need a deep hollow because their weight allows them to dig into the ice much easier than lighter skaters.


2. Hardness of the ice – Harder ice requires a deeper hollow in order to allow a player to dig in with the edges of the runners. On the other hand, soft, chippy ice requires a shallow hollow to allow a player to glide on the ice without digging in too deep.


3. Your skating style – Players who desire greater straightaway speed and easier gliding should use a shallow hollow, while players who desire the ability to make tighter, sharper turns should go with a deeper hollow.

Pitch

Pitch is a reference to the profile of the runner on a hockey skate which causes a player’s weight to shift to their toes or mid foot. Forward pitch puts a player on his toes and gives the skater an aggressive stance. Neutral pitch puts a skater on his mid foot for a stable, balanced stance. There's really no benefit to putting a backward pitch on your runners because leaning back on your heels will simply throw you off-balance. The pitch is adjusted by grinding down the runner at an angle so that your weight is shifted (pitched) toward your toes.

*Be careful with pitch adjustments*... Once you put a substantial pitch on your runners, there's no going back because you obviously can't reverse the grinding process. Your only option at that point is to replace the runners, which isn't the end of the world, but it's another $40-50 bucks that you don't want to have to spend as the result of a poor decision.

Another thing to understand about pitch is that your holders also play a major factor. For example, Cobra holders (used on Graf skates) have a longer heel post which lifts the heel and puts more of your weight on your toes for an aggressive stance. TUUK holders (used on Bauer skates), on the other hand, have a very neutral pitch, putting most of your weight on the middle of the foot for a neutral stance. If you've decided that you prefer a neutral stance, you're better off buying TUUK holders than grinding down the runners to off-set the natural pitch of another brand of holders. And if you prefer an aggressive stance, your best choice is to go with a pair of Cobra holders. This is the better way to address the issue of pitch, because if you happen to break a runner which you spent the time and money to have pitched (*tip: runners break more often than holders), you have to replace it and have it profiled again to match the runner on your other skate... Whereas if you simply chose a pair of holders with the pitch that suits your needs, you wouldn't have to deal with the hassle of readjusting the runner pitch.

Radius

Radius is the measurement of your skate runner’s profile as it relates to the size and shape of a circle. The visual aid above, which was used to show the imaginary circle created by the hollow of a runner, should help you understand how the radius is measured also. But in the case of runner radius, just imagine that you're looking at your runner from the side, and that the imaginary circle follows the contour of the blade's bottom edge. A runner with a 13’ radius is fairly flat and a large portion of the runner is touching the ice surface – so when you trace the profile of the blade and continue the imaginary line out to create an imaginary complete circle, the radius of that circle is 13'. A runner with a 9’ radius is noticeably more curved from tip to tip than a runner with a 13’ radius, and you can see that less of the runner's bottom edge is touching the ice surface when it's resting flat on the ice.

When you have your runners profiled, you're giving them a different "rocker". Visualize the curved feet of a rocking chair; you can find rocking chairs with varying foot curvatures, and this difference affects how much of the undersides of the feet are actually touching the ground beneath at any given point. When you look at the different rocker options that are available, you observe the same effect. More curvature (i.e. 9' Radius) = Less blade touching the ice.

Here’s basically how the pros and cons boil down…

1. 13’ radius – offers greater surface area contact, which increases straightaway speed, acceleration and balance at the cost of tight cornering and smooth transitions


2. 11’ radius – offers a good, well balanced blend of speed and agility


3. 9’ radius – offers great agility, tight cornering and smooth transitions at the cost of straightaway speed and acceleration

Cycling the Puck in Hockey

You have probably heard the term "cycling" before. Cycling is an important concept to understand, especially if you are a forward. Cycling is a strategy used in the offensive zone to maintain your team's control of the puck. In order to cycle effectively, your players must keep their feet moving and their heads on a swivel. In a nutshell, cycling is performed by controlling and moving the puck, usually along the boards deep in the zone, as you and your linemates rotate in and out of the corner, slot, and top of the circle while the defenders give chase. The goal is to protect the puck and keep it moving so that the defenders are forced to chase you and your linemates. Eventually, the defenders will tire out or one of your players will open up for a pass in a shooting lane.

There are a few things to keep in mind that will help you cycle the puck effectively:

• Keep Your Head Up – You should always have your head up in every situation, but it's crucial when you're cycling. Keeping track of your linemates and the opposing team's defenders is the best way to anticipate plays before they develop. Keeping your head up will also allow you to protect yourself when your opponents try to line you up for a check.


• Move Your Feet – It won't do you any good to stand in one place and pass the puck back and forth with your linemates. A sitting target is easy for any player to defend against, but a moving target is always an offensive threat. Have you ever noticed that it's much more tiring when you're stuck on a long defensive shift than it is when you're out on a long offensive shift? Use it to your advantage by making the other team skate hard to keep up and you'll find yourself with some great scoring chances.


• Communicate – One of the best ways to keep your awareness up is to communicate with your linemates. Let them know when a defender is on their tail or when they should brace for a hit. Call for drop passes, let them know if the puck is in their skates, and give them a heads up when you're heading to the slot for a quick shot. Sometimes it's best not to call out every move you're going to make so that you can keep the defenders guessing, but use your best judgment and communicate whenever it's beneficial.


• Use Good Body Positioning – Good body positioning is the key to puck-protection. You should use your legs and arms to ward off defenders and keep your body between them and the puck. Protecting the puck does not require you to do a bunch of fancy stick-work in order to maintain control. It comes down to keeping yourself and the puck in a position where you have the upper hand as you maneuver.

Remember that you shouldn't cycle just to cycle – do it with purpose. The point of cycling is to create scoring opportunities by maintaining possession of the puck with good puck-protection, quick feet, and great communication. As soon as the defenders make a mistake, and you or one of your linemates gets into scoring position, make the most of the opportunity and get the puck to the net.

Inline Hockey Wheels, Bearings, Axles & Spacers

At Hockey Giant, we get a fair amount of calls from customers who have questions as they're looking for wheels, bearings, axles, and spacers. There seems to be a bit of confusion when it comes to matching up the various parts. We'll attempt to shed some light on the subject by identifying each of the individual parts and the variations that you'll come across as you look at different skates and chassis models.

The core (aka "hub") of the wheel is the center, plastic part into which the bearings are inserted. There are two different core sizes available: 688 micro-bearing core wheels (pictured on left below) and 608 standard bearing wheels (pictured on right below). As you can see, the hole in the middle of each wheel is a different size, therefore they require bearings of different sizes. There are essentialy 4 different types of spacers: Standard 608, Micro 688, Floating Standard 608, and Floating Micro 688. They are labeled in the image below. There are 3 different axles pictured below as well: 6mm Axle and Screw, 8mm Axle and Screw, 8mm Axle Bolt.

The tree diagram below starts with the wheel type (608 Standard or 688 Micro) and then identifies which spacers and bearings will be needed based on your axle type. Most axles, whether 6mm or 8mm, have a female end into which the male screw is inserted, although some axles (usually just 8mm) have threads on the end of the bolt which screw directly into the chassis threads. In any case, the mm size of the axle and the wheel core type determines which type of spacers will be needed in order to properly mount the wheels to your chassis.

Most inline hockey skates are assembled with standard bearing wheels on the chassis, but there are of course some skates that are assembled with micro-bearing wheels. Since micro-bearing core wheels are currently being phased out you might consider making the switch to standard bearing wheels, such as the Labeda Addiction XXX Inline Wheels or Rink Rat Hornet Split Inline Wheels just for the sake of future availability and compatibility.

Get your Inline Hockey Wheels, Bearings, Spacers, and Axles today at HockeyGiant.com

Benefits of Wearing Hockey Performance Apparel

Performance apparel is becoming much more popular among players of all ages and skill levels. Performance apparel is offered in two fits: compression and loose. Fit is a matter of preference, but in order to reap the true performance benefits of under apparel, the compression fit is the way to go. When you wear compression shorts/pants, shirts and socks, bloodflow is increased and your muscles recover more quickly. Most performance apparel is also hydrophobic, which means it will keep you cool and wick away sweat.

There's a difference between constriction and a healthy amount of muscle compression. If your compression apparel is too tight, your bloodflow will decrease and your muscles will grow weak more quickly because they will not receive enough oxygen to recover as you play/practice. Compression apparel should fit tightly and comfortably. So make sure that if you decide to wear compression shorts, pants, shirts, or socks, you get the proper size. Otherwise, you might as well just not wear it at all.

Loose-fitting performance apparel is moisture-wicking, breathable and comfortable, but it does not provide the benefits of muscle compression. It's a great choice for players who simply prefer this type of fit over the compression fit. Players have been wearing regular t-shirts and boxer briefs under their gear for years, so it's not like you'll be at a severe disadvantage if you choose to go this route, but you might want to try the compression fit before dismissing it because there are certainly a few benefits to wearing it.

Every manufacturer has been increasing the number of performance apparel options that they provide each year. Whether you prefer to wear Bauer, Reebok, Easton, Shock Doctor, or Under Armour, is totally up to you. But it's nice to know that you have options. Each of these manufacturers have performance apparel shirts, shorts, pants, and socks, as well as shorts and pants with integrated jocks and Velcro sock tabs. The all-in-one jock shorts and pants are very convenient and give you one or two fewer things to forget each time you pack your bag to head to the rink.

Like any other piece of equipment, hockey performance apparel gets pretty smelly if you don't wash it. Make sure you take a look at the tags to find the appropriate cleaning method. Most hockey performance apparel can be tossed into the washing machine, but make sure you take out your cup first, and like I said before, check the tags.

Shop for Bauer Hockey Performance Apparel Today at HockeyGiant.com

Hockey Shaft & Blade Combos

These days, most hockey players are opting to use OPS sticks rather than two-piece blade and shaft combos. Some say it's because of the weight difference; others say it's because they feel like the low-kick flex point is more consistent. I grew up using wood sticks and eventually made the change to two piece shaft and blade combos. That was back in the days of the original Easton Ultra Lite shaft – a breakthrough in its own right for that time.

For years, I've been using shafts and blades and I've always been pleased. For some reason I decided to switch back to wood sticks for a while, which was fine, but I had trouble finding one that held up as well as the old Bauer Supreme 3030 sticks I used to play with. At that point I decided to try out a few OPS's. I wasn't disappointed with the performance of the sticks, but when I started breaking blades, I thought, "If this was a shaft/blade combo, I wouldn't be out $200 right now."

I don't have anything against one piece sticks, but I'd like to offer a few reasons to consider using a shaft/blade combo instead. Everyone has their own set of preferences when it comes to sticks, so what works for you may not be the best fit for the next guy.

Upsides to Using a Shaft/Blade Combo

1. The most obvious upside to using a shaft/blade combo is that when you break a blade, that's all you have to replace. It's much cheaper to replace a $30-$40 blade than to replace a $200 stick.


2. Cross-brand options – When you buy a Bauer OPS, you get Bauer blade patterns. When you buy an Easton OPS, you get Easton blade patterns. When you buy a shaft and blade separately, you have the option of mixing and matching the blade and shaft that work best for you. Maybe you like the TotalOne Shaft from Bauer, but you want to use a Synergy ST Blade from Easton... Not a problem.


3. Durability – This may have just been my own experience, but I've noticed a serious difference in durability between Shaft/Blade combos and OPS's. Not all OPS sticks, but many of the ones I've used have broken in a relatively short amount of time – much less time than the Shafts and Blades I've used. I don't have any science to back this up, but it might be the difference in torque distribution that causes a one piece stick to snap more easily than a shaft. Perhaps the material overlap of a shaft/blade combo acts as a form of reinforcement?

In any case, shafts and blades may not be the current trend, but there's certainly an argument to be made for them. There are plenty of reasons to give it a shot. Just keep in mind that shafts and blades come in "tapered" (.520") and "non-tapered" (standard .620"). You must only match tapered blades with tapered shafts and non-tapered blades with non-tapered shafts.

Get your Hockey Shafts & Blades at HockeyGiant.com